3696 roll call-what's been built so far?
Moderator: hbartel
I've been going overtime on designs since the Mustang worked. I've got templates cut out and ready for
Bf-109
P-51
Fw-190A
Fw-190D
TA-152
Zero
I-16
MiG-3
P-38
I've got the Mustang, Bf-109, and MiG-3 cut out, and tomorrow I should have an I-16 or two. I've gone through a package of paper and a couple of ink ribbons, 2 pairs of scissors, several ink pens and markers, couple rolls of tape, and more razor blades than I can count......Rady to start some building!
Bf-109
P-51
Fw-190A
Fw-190D
TA-152
Zero
I-16
MiG-3
P-38
I've got the Mustang, Bf-109, and MiG-3 cut out, and tomorrow I should have an I-16 or two. I've gone through a package of paper and a couple of ink ribbons, 2 pairs of scissors, several ink pens and markers, couple rolls of tape, and more razor blades than I can count......Rady to start some building!
- Air Scharnell
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Ed Kettler</i>
<br />I'm not very good at covering, and pretty much dislike Monokote and its limited colors. You need a light weight covering that can be painted, so if anyone has any proven approaches, please let me know.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I couldn't tell you where you could get some, but Mountain models(www.mountainmodels.com) used to give out a covering with their kits called Doculam. Obviously it's a document laminating material. It set with very low heat, and had a decent shrink rate. It is clear, and after some scuffing holds paint decently. That might be an option as far as iron ons go. Solarfilm and Solarfilm light are very low temp, but again color is an issue. It seems the best thing to do is cover it with what you're comfortable, then get out the paint. I plan on using white Econocote mostly, and applying paint over that.
<br />I'm not very good at covering, and pretty much dislike Monokote and its limited colors. You need a light weight covering that can be painted, so if anyone has any proven approaches, please let me know.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I couldn't tell you where you could get some, but Mountain models(www.mountainmodels.com) used to give out a covering with their kits called Doculam. Obviously it's a document laminating material. It set with very low heat, and had a decent shrink rate. It is clear, and after some scuffing holds paint decently. That might be an option as far as iron ons go. Solarfilm and Solarfilm light are very low temp, but again color is an issue. It seems the best thing to do is cover it with what you're comfortable, then get out the paint. I plan on using white Econocote mostly, and applying paint over that.
- Ed Kettler
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- Location: USA
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Alex,
I ended up building the He-219 as a 1 piece plane, as the mid wing location did not really lend itself to a removable wing like the Me-110 did. That, plus the weight of the attachment pieces (another couple of ounces on an already overweight plane), and it easily fits in by CRV, made it an easy decision.
I ended up building the He-219 as a 1 piece plane, as the mid wing location did not really lend itself to a removable wing like the Me-110 did. That, plus the weight of the attachment pieces (another couple of ounces on an already overweight plane), and it easily fits in by CRV, made it an easy decision.
- Ed Kettler
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Team Scharnell</i>
<br />ED,
A very nice job indeed......
By the way there are some pilots up this wondering about electric kits so keep us posted.
Look forward too seeing them at LSN
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Please see the announcement in http://www.rccombat.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12837
Looking forward to seeing everybody at LSN!
<br />ED,
A very nice job indeed......
By the way there are some pilots up this wondering about electric kits so keep us posted.
Look forward too seeing them at LSN
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Please see the announcement in http://www.rccombat.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12837
Looking forward to seeing everybody at LSN!
- Ed Kettler
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- Location: USA
- Contact:
Terry Farmer, one of the Richardson Club members and warbird fanatic shot these two videos. Enjoy!
FW-190 Second Flight: http://www.wyliewarbirds.com/video/elec ... fw190f.wmv
He-219 Speed Trial Against Macchi: http://www.wyliewarbirds.com/video/elec ... k/hink.wmv
Terry runs wyliewarbirds.com and has a radar gun we've been using for tests. Check out his site, he likes big warbirds
FW-190 Second Flight: http://www.wyliewarbirds.com/video/elec ... fw190f.wmv
He-219 Speed Trial Against Macchi: http://www.wyliewarbirds.com/video/elec ... k/hink.wmv
Terry runs wyliewarbirds.com and has a radar gun we've been using for tests. Check out his site, he likes big warbirds
-
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How much BiDi is everyone using on the wings?
Last weekend I test flew a P-51 with no Bi-di at all, and due to 30mph winds and some aggressive low-level test maneuvers, the Mustang executed some severe full-speed cartwheels in 3 or 4 seperate incidents. Of course, "I meant to do that" [:D]
I was pleased however to find that the wing suffered no visible damage. [:)]
Last weekend I test flew a P-51 with no Bi-di at all, and due to 30mph winds and some aggressive low-level test maneuvers, the Mustang executed some severe full-speed cartwheels in 3 or 4 seperate incidents. Of course, "I meant to do that" [:D]
I was pleased however to find that the wing suffered no visible damage. [:)]
I didn't use any bibi on my Mustang, just 2" uni-di strapping tape. I ran a strip along the leading edge, trailing edge, span wise over the spar, and then wrapped radially around the wing center to about 4 inches from the center. If you stress the tape well, you'll get a very strong and stiff wing even without wooden spars.
I covered the fuse almost entirely with it, leaving only a few odd spots uncovered.
I covered the fuse almost entirely with it, leaving only a few odd spots uncovered.
- Ed Kettler
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-
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-
- Posts: 941
- Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2005 2:00 pm
- Location: USA
- Contact:
Nick and I flew a round of 3696 today. We had about 10' streamers with 5' leaders. Neither one of us got a cut, but there were some near misses.
Here is a picture by cheif aircraft launcher/combat photographer Huff: Nicks P-51 on the left, my Me-109 on the right.
I modified how I was bolting the wing on, and the new mounting method withstood a couple cartwheels no-problem! [8D]
Here is a picture by cheif aircraft launcher/combat photographer Huff: Nicks P-51 on the left, my Me-109 on the right.
I modified how I was bolting the wing on, and the new mounting method withstood a couple cartwheels no-problem! [8D]
-
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I finished the Me-109 that I completed last weekend with Testors Model paint, but of course when trying to add covering or patch over a hole, anywhere that's painted makes a mess.
Has anyone found a paint that will hold up well to the heat and is available in WW2 aircraft camo colors?
I may just switch to Zeros so I can cover them all in stock white ekonocote... [:)]
Has anyone found a paint that will hold up well to the heat and is available in WW2 aircraft camo colors?
I may just switch to Zeros so I can cover them all in stock white ekonocote... [:)]
- Ed Kettler
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Please post a close up picture of each plane, Alex. We'd like to see your handiwork!Weights, power systems, prop, etc too.
I have had pretty good success using plastic spray primer over scuffed tape that is then cleaned with alcohol. Once that dries for a day, it seems to take acrylic model paints pretty well.
Try the Dove Grey instead of the white on Zeros.
Ed
I have had pretty good success using plastic spray primer over scuffed tape that is then cleaned with alcohol. Once that dries for a day, it seems to take acrylic model paints pretty well.
Try the Dove Grey instead of the white on Zeros.
Ed
-
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Ed Kettler</i>
<br />Please post a close up picture of each plane, Alex. We'd like to see your handiwork!Weights, power systems, prop, etc too.
Ed<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Me-109 was 28.3 ounces with Bi-di armor, Rimfire 36-35-1000 (or 35-36??) motor, electrifly 35A ESC, and Electrifly 2100 mAh battery. 3 HS-81MG servos, MA 9x6 (new style). It came out of the CNC ready to glue together, so I'm going to try to get a couple more of these built up and fine-tune. I will also be employing a better (read: no rubber band) method of holding the battery cover on. I need to add a real canopy too. There are a couple things I did to this plane I wouldn't do next time, so that should save about an ounce. As to the red spinner, it was the only one I could find laying around that was the right size....
Oh yeah, thanks to Chief Combat Photographer Huff for taking the official "pre-flight" picture, Chief Launch Assistants Brian and Steve for getting the fighters airborne, and to Dave and Nick for all the E-help! [;)]
<br />Please post a close up picture of each plane, Alex. We'd like to see your handiwork!Weights, power systems, prop, etc too.
Ed<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Me-109 was 28.3 ounces with Bi-di armor, Rimfire 36-35-1000 (or 35-36??) motor, electrifly 35A ESC, and Electrifly 2100 mAh battery. 3 HS-81MG servos, MA 9x6 (new style). It came out of the CNC ready to glue together, so I'm going to try to get a couple more of these built up and fine-tune. I will also be employing a better (read: no rubber band) method of holding the battery cover on. I need to add a real canopy too. There are a couple things I did to this plane I wouldn't do next time, so that should save about an ounce. As to the red spinner, it was the only one I could find laying around that was the right size....
Oh yeah, thanks to Chief Combat Photographer Huff for taking the official "pre-flight" picture, Chief Launch Assistants Brian and Steve for getting the fighters airborne, and to Dave and Nick for all the E-help! [;)]