Remote needle valves for OS25 FX (open B)

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gsjames
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Remote needle valves for OS25 FX (open B)

Post by gsjames »

Anyone got some clever setup for mounting a remote needle valve on a Battle Axe B? I cut off the backplate mounted needle (it's gonna break off anyway) and am looking for different solutions. I've seen some guys just zip-tie it on, but I just can't bring myself to do that...
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lightning
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Post by lightning »

Screw this assembly http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WT ... &search=Go to your fuselage close to the engine and at an angle to position the needle to the rear. I even have some held by one of the engine mount bolts.
Use the 25FX needle, ratchet and "O" ring.
All my planes are rigged like that. Works great for me.
gsjames
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Post by gsjames »

Yeah, that looks like a good one, thanks! Any other ideas from other people?
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boiler
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Post by boiler »

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wt ... LXG924&P=7

This is the new model of what I've been using. Just put one of the throttle servo platform screws through the hole on the needle before putting it through the mount. Twist the needle to the angle you want before tightening it down. The one I have been using isn't as pretty and cost about $3 less.
gsjames
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Post by gsjames »

I was thinking about this thing:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wt ... LXCC29&P=M

to mount my existing remote needles, but I'm not sure that it's what I want. Either one of the ones that you guys suggested look very good. I'm going to go to Lowes/HD tomorrow and look through the hardware section and metals section and see if I can find some "L" angle with legs at least 1 1/4" long. If so, I can cut out some brackets that will take my existing remote needle valve setups. We use remote needles bolted to the rear case on AMA Fast CL Combat, but the brackets that we use there are not suitable for a Battle Axe. They would work fine on an Avenger however, since they are set up for a sidewinder mounted engine. If I can't find anything good at the hardware store, then it's off to the hobby shop.

I've got 5 SSC and 5 Open B fuselages ready to go, but I need to make up a batch of wings. I've got the foam blanked out and the templates made, just gotta wait until some decent weather to do some cuttin'. Haven't started on the Texas Flugwerks 2548 P-51's yet.
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Ed Kettler
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Post by Ed Kettler »

I have seen some folks use milk jug and plastic container materials instead of the metal pieces. I do like the RNV that has barbs on both the inlet and outlet tubes. The LA NVs have one barbed and the end going to the carb is slick.

I hear ya Gary, I had to chip ice off the car to get home tonight. We may have to start learning the words to Yankee Doodle if all this global warming keeps up.[:D]
sgilkey
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Post by sgilkey »

I like the 10/15FP NVA (for carb 1A) as it has very fine metering. I dislike that it does not have barbs on both nipples but just use small fuel line on the unbarbed one which seems to work OK. Lou Melancon taught me a neat trick, using a nylon control horn to mount the NVA by enlarging a clevis hole, and attaching the NVA with the supplied nut, then screw the horn to a convenient spot. Since control horns cost a whopping $.25 or so I have since resorted to scrap pieces of phencepost corners. I tried thin brass thinking it would deflect in a crash, but it fatigues and cracks rapidly. Heavier gage metal is needed, to avoid this.
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boiler
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Post by boiler »

I still have several LA 15 and FX 25 needles in service. To attach them to the rail I tie a piece of nylon elastic from the Wal Mart fabric area to the rail and then use the extra tags that I left on the elastic to tie on the needle. 1/8th wide works fine for that and I use 1/4 inch wide to tether engines on my scale planes that use glass motor mounts.
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