Preferred covering methods for 2548 planes

[sgilkey]

Looks like Brian and I are going to bite the bullet and build a couple of 2548 planes so we don't miss out on the fun. We've come to really like tape covering since it's fast and easy to repair, especially at the field. However with 2548 i'm wondering if a more durable RSN covering shouldn't be used. What is the experience of the 2548 guys- is RSN worth the trouble in this class, or is tape OK? Appreciate any suggestions.

[Ed Kettler]

I have built over 10 2548 planes, some covered in tape (6+) the rest in Ultracote/Monokote. I don't have any experience with RSN, but I make my choice on covering based on the complexity of the scheme. The Mustangs with complex schemes I use paint over tape. Aluminum schemes I use plastic covering. Field repairs are with clear tape in both cases.

HTH
Ed

[boiler]

The main problem I have using tape is getting a good paint to stick to the tape and then be fuel proof. I suppose to be safe you would use a paint like fusion that is good at sticking and then overcoat it with a model spray paint that is guaranteed fuel proof. I have over coated with wp polyurathane with some success. You have to be carful because some paints can cause the paint below to shrivel and come lose. From that standpoint, the rsn would be a good choice. It is a lot more work. If you have some to use up, I suggest you try a litte of each and then make a decision which you will bother to re-order. I built four 2548 and one 2610 plane using the tape. If I were to do another 2548 I think I might try the ripstop to compare it to the tape. Since exact color isn't as important in 2610, I don't paint that and it is a lot easier to use.

[Rabbit Leader]

I use Ultrakote and monokote, and Lustrekote paint. Dunno about the ripstop, as all my scale, open b and ssc birds have been tape and/or covering. How heavy is the RSN? If the weave is filled so the paint won't soak thru and attack the foam, I'd be tempted to try Lustrekote or a good epoxy paint over the rsn.

[Father O 5]

I don't know if maybe my method is overkill or not but I am using monokote over tape! I use the thin packing tape and iron it down first and then overlay small (probably 4" x 4" at the largest) pieces of monokote to keep the bubbling down. Easier to iron the bubbles out of the edges if you use small pieces. You end up with alot of overlap lines but it looks great from about 4-6 ft away and you will be able to see the tape overlap thru it anyway. Just think of it as built in panel lines. I have also had success "wood peckering" the tape before monokote.

I have tried some "plastic primer" spraypaint on the tape but that came off too easily. A shame too becasue the primer was the perfect color for a Russian front Bf-109 SSC ship.

If you have sharpie marker on coroplast, Krylon Fusion will make it bleed and expand to about twice the area of the original mark!!

[Dane McGee]

Scott, I've been using colored packing tape, rough it up and clean it well with alcohol then paint with lusterkote paints.....seems to work out fine.

Choosing a color scheme that I could match by using a colored tape and very little paint would be ideal.