CNC theory help
Moderator: hbartel
CNC theory help
I've finally got all the materials to build my CNC cutter, but I'm having a problem understanding something...
When you load your images for a tapered cut, whether it's wing or fuse, is there any other way other than trial and error on each cut to determine how much to enlarge your image and where to position the foam to get your cut the proper size?
Did I type that so you guys can understand it??
My idea is that if you have your root and tip templates the proper size, then each axis will move according to the template...since the foam is probably not right up against your carriages, your wing is going to actually be smaller than your template or image size...is there a constant mathematical formula one can use to determine the % to increase your template size in relation to where your foam is actually going to be, or is this set up in the software itself? I planned on using the Foamworks software, but other than the online manuals and tutorials, I haven't actually used the program yet.
When you load your images for a tapered cut, whether it's wing or fuse, is there any other way other than trial and error on each cut to determine how much to enlarge your image and where to position the foam to get your cut the proper size?
Did I type that so you guys can understand it??
My idea is that if you have your root and tip templates the proper size, then each axis will move according to the template...since the foam is probably not right up against your carriages, your wing is going to actually be smaller than your template or image size...is there a constant mathematical formula one can use to determine the % to increase your template size in relation to where your foam is actually going to be, or is this set up in the software itself? I planned on using the Foamworks software, but other than the online manuals and tutorials, I haven't actually used the program yet.
Some people place the blank in the middle of the table and some position it on the left for a right core and to the right for a left core. I prefer the later. I use a piece of angle iron to be sure I get the core in the same place each time. To make the angle iron removable I put 2 screws into the table and drilled coresponding holes in the angle iron. I think it's more important to get the root right so the cores match up as well as possible. You don't really notice much if the tips are a little off!
As you figured out placing the blank in the correct place is important!
As you figured out placing the blank in the correct place is important!
I am trying to find a sheet or cover that is marked off in 1" grids to cover the table with before I set the machine up on it. I thought that would help greatly in placing the block, but so far I haven't found anything. Still have a couple of places to look.
The angle iron is a good idea, Mike, I hadn't thought of that. Yes, I was more concerned about the roots than the tips..I would assume if the software has your span and taper input, then as long as your root cut matched up, the tips should be close enough for government work.
The angle iron is a good idea, Mike, I hadn't thought of that. Yes, I was more concerned about the roots than the tips..I would assume if the software has your span and taper input, then as long as your root cut matched up, the tips should be close enough for government work.