Tomahawk SSC - Build Manual / Thread

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Tomahawk SSC - Build Manual / Thread

Post by Blue Note »

Tomahawk SSC
http://www.bluenotecreations.com/

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The Wing :

:D The Tomahawk's proprietary CG3S airfoil has been specifically designed to excel in RC combat. Neutral handling is provided by a fully symmetrical, high lift, low drag, damage tolerant wing that allows equal positive and negative maneuvering capabilities across a wide wing loading range.
:D The integrated wing positioning system allows deflection upon impact to displace energy and then returns the wing to its neutral position, with minimal damage.
:D The optimized wing plan-form provides increased stability and energy ( speed ) retention through extreme maneuvers and excellent slow speed flight characteristics with minimal tip stall at all speeds.
:D The wing cores are created from a specially formulated crush resistant, low density EPS foam with EPP leading edges and tips for damage resistance and lightness.
:D Dual aileron servo integration provides control redundancy for survivability while also allowing mixing and individual end-point adjustments.
:D Fiberglass reinforced center section, trailing edge and strike plate for strength and component protection.
:D Proven construction methods incorporating dual Ø1/8” continuous fiberglass spars across the wingspan, bi-directional fiberglass adhesive tape, and colored packing tape yields a strong and durable wing.

The Fuselage :


:D Robust anodized aluminum channel backbone provides 54% more strength than 3/8” x 1/2” rails.
:D Modular design allows for quick assembly, repairs, and break down while storing compactly in plastic totes.
:D Simplified installation of the Magnum 15 XLS engine via the optionally pre-drilled fuselage channels or use the standard undrilled version for the O.S. 15 LA and other engines.
:D Fiberglass reinforced vertical stabilizer, with ventral fin, protects the stabulator servo while increasing directional tracking and resisting yaw deviations when the wings are loaded with ribbons.
:D The full flying stabulator provides authoritative pitch control with minimizing torque loads on the servo via aerodynamic balances while remaining quickly removable for transportation or storage.
:D Streamline aluminum rubber band retainers firmly secured to the fuselage for wing attachment.
:D Throttle servo positioning protects servo from exhaust spray damage and the shock absorbing push rod system protects it from impact damage.
:D The quickly removable, light weight, shock absorbing skid system allows smooth landings while protecting the ventral structures from damage and debris during landings.
:D Integrated throttle servo and wing stop assembly provides support for flight conditions while implementing a mechanical fuse system to minimize airframe damage from ground impacts.

Components Required ( beyond Base & Accessory Kit ) :

( 1 ) Throttle Servo ( 9-10g )
( 2 ) Oversized servo arms for ailerons
( 3 ) Mini Servos ( i.e. Hitec HS-82MG )
( 5 ) 6” servo extensions
.15 Engine, glow plug, compatible spinner nut, remote needle and fuel filter ( if desired )
MAS 8x3 Propeller
Receiver
Receiver battery ( about 400mAh ) ( plus UBEC if using a LiPo )
Transmitter
Wing Rubber bands

Additional Tools & Materials Required/Suggested :

Glues, Tapes & Adhesives :

( 1 ) roll of Bi-Directional fiberglass packing tape ( such as 3M Scotch Extreme )
( 2-4 ) Rolls of light weight colored packing tape (or film) for covering
30 Minute epoxy
3M Super77 Classic Spray Glue
Clear Packing tape
Goop Adhesive ( Marine variety preferred )
Low temperature hot melt glue stick and low temperature glue gun
Low viscosity 2-part foam safe epoxy resin ( such as West System Brand 105/205 )
Polyurethane Glue ( such as Gorilla Glue ) or Adhesive Caulk ( such as Polyseamseal )
Regular tack masking tape
Thin Cyanoacrylate ( CA ) glue

Tools and Equipment :

#11 razor knife and extra blades
Center Punch
CG Meter
Combination Square
Covering iron
Deflection meter
Drill and 1/16”, 1/8”, 9/64”, 5/32”, #20 ( or 11/64” ), and drill bits
Electric rotary tool with flat stone bit and router base ( if available )
Electronic scale ( if available )
Engine Mount Hole Locator ( if using undrilled fuselage option )
Fine tip markers and pencil
Hex head drivers
Needle nose pliers
Pop Rivet gun ( or replacement #4-40 screws and nuts for skid )
Safety glasses
Scissors
Small Phillips head screwdriver ( for servo arm )
Small plastic card ( such as credit card ) for applying the tape
Steel ruler ( various sizes )
Timer
Various clamps
Various small metal files
Various weights ( soft preferred )
Wire cutters

Consumable Supplies :

( 1 ) Sandwich bag
( 2 ) Small nuts ( slightly smaller than the side of servos )
120 Grit sandpaper
Blue thread lock
Fine steel wool
Disposable brush
Grocery bag
Micro-balloons ( preferred ) or talcum powder
Mixing cups and stir/application sticks
Paper towels or rags
Rubbing alcohol
Small board or book ( for potting the servos )
Last edited by Blue Note on Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:36 am, edited 6 times in total.
Chris Gunter
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Re: Tomahawk SSC - Build Manual / Thread - Now Kitting

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Tomahawk SSC Assembly
( Quick Build Guide )


Wing Assembly :

Step 1
a) Remove wing from husks and wipe clean with hand or rag.
b) Glue the 3 wing panels and EPP parts together with foam safe spray adhesive.
Step 2
a) Glue the fiberglass spars into the wing with a 1/2” riser under the midsection to induce anhedral.
b) Layout and create the pockets for the receiver, aileron servos with 6” extensions, and the trailing edge ( TE ) balsa reinforcement block in the bottom surface of the wing.
Step 3
a) Harden the edges of the TE balsa block with thin CA glue and sand smooth at notches.
b) “Pot” the aileron servos in the wing and glue the TE balsa block centered in place with a mixture of 30 minute epoxy and microballoons.
Step 4
a) Embed the receiver battery forward of the ventral spar and run wiring under the spar to the receiver.
b) Glue the dorsal wing cap in place with spray adhesive. Sand as needed to blind into wing.
c) Run the extensions for the battery and throttle from the receiver to the top front of the wing cap so they sit flush along the top right. Hot glue in place with the battery lead above the throttle lead and extending slightly beyond the strike plate.
d) Embed a passage for the battery lead as desired so it exits to the left of the extension terminals of the wing cap.
e) Tack the aileron servos and extensions in place with hot glue.
Step 5
a) Cut an access hole to match with the plug area of the receiver and embed the stabulator servo lead in the dorsal surface of the foam riser base and secure with hot glue.
b) Connect the stabulator servo lead to the receiver and attach the riser base to the bottom center wing with spray adhesive. Fill in any gap at the nose with EPP foam.
c) Shape the strike plate to match the nose of the wing and attach with thickened epoxy. Smooth edges as needed.
Step 6
a) Attach the plain weave fiberglass cloth to the top and bottom center sections and trailing edges of the wing with spray adhesive. Secure the 2 patches of satin cloth over the nose and cap of the wing in the same manner.
b) Once all cloth is in place, wet it out thoroughly with thin epoxy resin, squeegee off the excess, and allow it to cure. Trim off any overhanging hardened fiberglass and smooth the trailing edge block notches.
Step 7
a) Mist the entire wing with spray adhesive. Let dry 10 minutes. Attach the ailerons and cover entire wing with Bi-Di tape. Scuff and clean the back of the Bi-Di tape. Set adhesive with medium heat covering iron then respray with adhesive and let dry 10 minutes.
b) Apply the colored packing tape or shrink film of choice.
Step 8
a) Install the aileron control horns, assemble the push rods, and connect to the servos. Set the aileron control throws for high ( 3/4” ) and low ( 1/2” ) rates. The wing is done.

Fuselage Assembly :

Step 9 – The Vertical
a) Insert the wooden reinforcement strip behind the hole locations for the vertical ( #20 or 11/64” ) and ribbon ( 1/8” ) attachment and drill. CA the strips in place from holes and test fit. Trim as needed.
b) Mark the position of the stabulator servo in the vertical stabilizer and cut the servo opening with the lead toward the front.
c) Secure the stabulator servo into the vertical stabilizer with the 10” long 5/32” fiberglass rod and/or bamboo skewers inserted through the flutes. Do not glue in place. Tape the perimeter of the vertical stabilizer.
d) Attach the vertical stabilizer to both fuselage rails with the ( 2 ) aluminum all-thread rods, ( 4 ) aluminum nuts, and ( 4 ) short standoffs using blue thread lock. The flanges of the standoffs are against the vertical.
Step 10 – The Stabulator
a) Attach the stabulator to the fuselage with the 11” long 5/32” fiberglass rod sliding it from the corner flute,through the longer standoffs ( flange side out ) and into the rails. Tack the standoffs in place with hot glue. With the stabulator servo in neutral, mark the position of the control horn screw to match the 2nd hole of the servo arm. Reinforce the hole location with ( 2 ) plywood strips, drill a 9/64” hole, CA the strips in place from hole and redrill.
b) Clean the stabulator fuselage notch as needed. Tape the perimeter of the stabulator. Insert the #4-40 x 1 1/4” pan head screw and washer through the stabulator from the top.
c) Clamp the t-nut into the stabulator, remove the screw, CA in place, reinsert the screw and tighten. Install the nylon control clevis link to the screw leaving 5/8” clearance between t-nut and barrel of clevis link.
d) Size and attach the stabulator push rod with servo and control surfaces in neutral.
e) Set stabulator control throws : High Rates +/- 3/8” @ LE, Low Rates +/- 3/16” @ LE with approximately 25% exponential.
Step 11 – Mounting the Engine
a) Apply a strip of masking tape upon the top front edge of the fuselage rails.
b) Mark the locations for the engine mounting holes in the fuselage with the engine tabs flush to the front edge of the rails.
c) Indent the hole locations with a center punch and drill to 1/8”.
d) Attach the engine to the rails with ( 4 ) 3mm or #4-40 screws and nylon lock nuts.
Step 12 – The Wing Stop / Throttle Servo Block
a) Fuel proof the back plate with thin CA. Goop the wing blocks to the back plate with the holes near the wood and centered upon the rails. Assembly should be flush on bottom.
b) Goop throttle servo to back plate, allowing proper clearance for push rod below rails and with servo spline on the opposite side of the engines throttle arm..
c) Position the throttle servo arm perpendicular to the rails and fill the gaps around the servo with hot glue.

Final Assembly :

Step 13 – Putting Things In Place
a) Temporarily attach the wing and all components to the fuselage with rubber bands and bamboo skewers in their relative positions.
b) Propeller, spinner nut, fuel tubing, skid and all possible hardware should be in place.
Step 14 – Center of Gravity ( CG ) & Markings
a) Move all unsecured components along the fuselage rails until the plane balances at 2” from the center panel leading edge.
b) Mark the location of the Wing Stop / Throttle Block, leading edge and trailing edge rubber band notches. Measure and mark skid anchor locations onto the fuselage rails.
Step 15 – Mounting the Hardware
a) Remove all loose components and protect the engine. Drill and clean the holes for the Wing Stop / Throttle Block ( 1/8” ), skid anchors ( 1/8” ), and rubber band retainers ( 5/32” ) into each fuselage rail.
b) Install the ( 4 ) rubber band retainers.
c) Install the Wing Stop / Throttle Block to the rails with the #4-40 x 1 1/4” pan head screws, flat washers, and lock nuts. Sleeve the excess throttle servo lead in a section of straw and secure to the throttle servo.
d) Attach the throttle servo arm in neutral.
e) Attach the nylon landing skid anchors between the rails with blind rivets and test fit the skid.
Step 16 – Attaching the Tank and Throttle Linkage
a) Weave the throttle push rod sleeve through the foam tank cushion, insert the Z-bend of the wire into the throttle servo arm, and lock everything place, along with the fuel tank, with ( 2 ) 11” cable ties wrapped around the fuselage rails and through the foam cushion.
b) Secure the free end of the throttle push rod to the engine using a small quick connector and blue thread lock. Set throttle throws on radio for full function.
Step 17 – Final Checks & All-Up-Weight ( AUW )
a) Install all components and secure with rubber bands, fiberglass rods, and hot glue as appropriate.
b) Double check all control directions and throws.
c) Check final weight of the Tomahawk SSC and go chase some tail. Enjoy!
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Re: Tomahawk SSC - Build Manual / Thread - Now Kitting

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Tomahawk SSC
( Build Details )

The Wing


Step 1 : Joining the Wings

a) Remove the wing panels from their husks and wipe them down with a clean hand or rag to remove any foam whiskers or dust left behind from the cutting process. Make sure the EPP leading edges and tips are sufficiently tacked in place when gluing the wing sections together with the spray adhesive if necessary.
b) Spray a moderate coat of 3M Super77 Classic Spray Adhesive ( or similar foam safe spray glue) to the root cores of the outer wing panels and tip cores of the center wing section. Allow these to dry about 6 minutes, then carefully join the outer panels to the center panel by lining the parts up along the leading edges and spar slots. Since the parts are symmetrical, there is no left or right tip section.

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Last edited by Blue Note on Sun Jun 01, 2014 9:30 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Tomahawk SSC - Build Manual / Thread - Now Kitting

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Step 2 : The Spars

a) Perform a trial fit of both spars through the slots in the wing. Be careful through the curve of the center section so that the fiberglass rods do not dig into the edge of the foam.
b) Once satisfied with the fit of the spar rods, inject a bead of polyurethane ( PU ) glue or adhesive caulk into the spar slots. Slide the spars into the foam wing from one end while twisting the rod to smear the adhesive around in the groove. If using PU, spray the rods with a mist of water before inserting them into the slots to help activate the adhesive.

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c) Once the spars are in place, clean off any excess adhesive so that it is flush with the surface of the foam and then cover the entire slots with regular tack ( beige ) masking tape.

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d) Using scrap foam or similar item, place the center of the wing upon a 1/2” tall riser about 1” wide running front to back ( the center height is the important part here ). Apply some weight on each wing tip so that it produces a bow in the wing. Allow the adhesive to fully dry before continuing. Note : PU glue expands as it dries and may need to be scraped intermittently to minimize post-cure sanding. Do not use too much as the drying PU glue can push the spar out of the slot and make a mess! The masking tape can be removed after about 2 hours with the PU for clean-up. Use pins to wedge the spars into the groove and leave to dry a few hours if using the adhesive caulk installation ( preferred method ). Both should be left in position overnight to dry if possible.

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Note : From this point on, the wing possesses anhedral, which means that the tips angle down and will be lower than the center section of the wing. This is in opposition to conventional arrangements and is important when installing the components.
Last edited by Blue Note on Sun Jun 01, 2014 9:45 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Tomahawk SSC - Build Manual / Thread - Now Kitting

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Step 3 : The Wing Servos, Receiver, and Trailing Edge Block

a) Sand the edges smooth along the notches of the balsa trailing edge block to prevent them from cutting into the wing rubber bands. Apply thin CA glue to harden these edges and allow it to dry completely. The CA will raise the wood grain a bit, so sand it smooth again as needed, especially in the round notches.

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b) Mark the position for the balsa trailing edge reinforcement block so that if fits centered at the aft section of the bottom of the wing. ( Remember, this wing possesses anhedral, so the tips will be up off of the table some in this position. ) The trailing edge of the block should match up with the trailing edge of the foam, although there will be a slight thickness difference. It is useful to also mark the position of the rails onto the wing for when working with the servo leads later. Position the receiver centered roughly mid-way between the spar and the front of the balsa trailing edge block, keeping in mind the space required for the servo plugs. Each aileron servos requires a 6” extension and should be placed out the wing far enough to avoid excessive slack in the leads at the receiver. Make sure to secure these connections. Position the aileron servos slightly aft of the spars with the wires toward the rear of the wing.

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c) Using a small rotary tool router with a flat stone bit, remove the foam necessary to fit the servos, receiver, and wiring just below the surface of the foam. Thin slots can be cut into the foam with a warm knife for small wires such as the receiver antenna. Remove the foam from the trailing edge at the center to accept the balsa insert with a sharp razor knife, keeping it as square as possible. Test fit all of these components.

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d) The aileron servos are “potted” into the foam to ensure a tight and secure fit. This is easily done using epoxy thickened with micro-balloons, a sandwich bag, a small nut, and light weight placed directly upon the servo case.

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e) First, mix 30 minute epoxy while adding micro-balloons to form a thick paste. Line the servo pockets with the paste along the bottom and sides, avoiding the region of the servo arm and moving parts.

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f) Place a small piece of sandwich bag over the pocket and push the servo into the recess, squishing the paste into all of the corners while protecting the servo with the plastic. Place a small item, such as a nut, upon the servo case followed by a small board and weight. This will push the servo into the foam wing while the epoxy cures.

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g) Glue the balsa trailing edge reinforcement in place with the epoxy and micro-balloon mixture, centering it with the trailing edge. Use the epoxy paste to fill in any gaps between the foam and balsa block.

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Last edited by Blue Note on Sun Jun 01, 2014 9:49 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Tomahawk SSC - Build Manual / Thread - Now Kitting

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Step 4 : The Battery & Throttle ( plus UBEC if needed )

a) Position the receiver battery in the center of the wing between the leading edge and the spar along the bottom side of the wing. Bury it as far forward as comfortable, between the fuselage rails and flush with the surface. This area will be covered with the foam riser base and fiberglass cloth later, so just put it deep enough to allow the riser to still fit flush. Route all of the wiring just below the surface of the spar.

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b) Attach the foam cap to the top forward section of the center of the wing with spray adhesive. The cap extends about 1/4” beyond the leading edge and almost to the center of the cord. Feather in the cap to the airfoil with a sanding block as needed. ( This step is further illustrated in the next few pictures. ) The 6” extensions for both the throttle and battery run from the receiver, through the wire tunnel under the lower spar, above the battery ( toward the top of the wing ) and exit along the upper right surface of the wing cap.

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c) Create a pocket to accept the wiring and plugs for the battery and throttle extensions in the upper wing cap so they are flush to the dorsal surface. These plugs should extend slightly beyond the 1/8” lite-ply wing strike plate. The battery plug needs to be above the throttle servo plug since the battery plug serves as the switch and will need to be accessed regularly. Secure the plugs in place with low temperature hot melt glue, ensuring that they will stay put when the plugs are joined or removed during service. Fill in any excess space in the pocket as needed.

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d) The lead of the battery should exit from the front of the wing cap along the left side. Using something like a straw to pass the lead through can be useful too if easy removal of the battery is desired. This can also be hot glued in place and should end flush with the wing strike plate, not beyond.

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e)
Tack the aileron servos and leads in place with tiny amounts of hot glue, making sure the oversized servo arms are installed with the servos in neutral. Plug the battery and throttle leads into the receiver before proceeding, making sure each is in the correct receiver position.

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Last edited by Blue Note on Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:09 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Tomahawk SSC - Build Manual / Thread - Now Kitting

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Step 5 : Stabulator Servo, Base & Face Plate

a) Route a pocket and groove to accept the stabulator extension and plug so that it sits flush or slightly recessed in the dorsal side of the foam riser base. The plug should protrude slightly beyond the aft edge of the riser base. Cut a matching hole in the riser to allow access to the plugs at the receiver from the bottom of the wing. Secure the stabulator servo extension in place with sufficient hot glue to make sure it stays put with repeated use.

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b) Attach the foam riser base to the center of the bottom of the wing using spray adhesive, masking the receiver from the glue during spraying. As with the cap, the base should extend about 1/4” forward of the leading edge of the wing. The receiver plugs should line up with the hole in the riser with the base sitting flush upon the surface of the wing.

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c) Fill in any gap that may exist between the wing cap and riser base with scrap EPP foam and hot glue. Flush up the face of the nose as needed. Make a paper template of the nose area and transfer this to the lite-ply strike plate once satisfied with the fit. Cut the strike plate to match.

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d) Glue the strike plate to the nose of the wing with microballoon thickened epoxy, filling in any gaps that may exist. Be careful to keep the plugs and battery port clean. Smooth the edges of the strike plate with sandpaper as needed.

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Last edited by Blue Note on Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Tomahawk SSC - Build Manual / Thread - Now Kitting

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Step 6 : Fiberglassing the Wing

a) Note : Many resin systems will work for this step. The West System 105 Epoxy Resin and 205 Fast Hardener has proven to work well for this application and can be acquired at many boating shops for fiberglass repairs. Thicker resins may prove more difficult to fully saturate the cloth. Make sure the chosen resin is foam compatible by testing it on a piece of scrap before applying it to the wing.

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b) Secure the fiberglass cloth in place with a light application of spray adhesive to the cloth and the foam. This ensures that the cloth will stay in position while wetting it out with the resin. Apply the 24” long strips along the upper and lower center panel's trailing edges, slightly overhanging the ends. Next, place the 11'' long center sections along the top and bottom center, folding the cloth into the corners and along the cap contours. In some cases, small cuts in the fiberglass cloth may help the cloth lay flat, especially where contours make the fabric want to wrinkle. The two 4”x 4” satin weave patches center over the nose of the wing and upon the cap. This will serve to strengthen the nose-to-wing junction and where the rubber bands will rest to maintain wing alignment.

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c) Once all of the dry fiberglass cloth is in place, wet it out thoroughly with foam safe epoxy resin. Using a small brush, saturate the cloth while pushing the epoxy down to the foam wing and then squeegee off any excess resin from the cloth. Repeat this process for the top, bottom, and trailing edges of the center section of the wing. No fiberglass is applied to the trailing edges of the outer wing panels. After the resin has fully cured, trim off the overhanging material with a sharp razor knife. Make sure the trailing edge block notches are clean and smooth so they do not cut into the rubber bands.

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Last edited by Blue Note on Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Tomahawk SSC - Build Manual / Thread - Now Kitting

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Step 7 : Taping the Wing

Note : A light application of spray adhesive increases the strength of adhesion between the tape and the foam. Allow this to dry ten minutes before taping.

a) The ailerons are hinged along the top surface of the wing with a piece of 2” wide Bi-Directional fiberglass adhesive tape. Position the aileron flush with the tip of its respective wing with the beveled side down. Secure the aileron to the top of the wing with a 2” wide strip of Bi-Di tape, making sure to it can still move freely.

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Note :
These pictures already possess the colored taping, but still show the construction of the wing. The Bi-Di tape layer is the same underneath the colored tape.

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b) Apply another piece of Bi-Di tape along the bottom surface of the wing and aileron while carefully pushing the tape into the crevice of the hinge line to secure the control surface to the wing. Make sure the aileron still moves freely then repeat this for the other aileron as well.

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c) Cover the entire foam surface of the wing with a single layer of Bi-Di tape. Avoid overlapping the tape except at the wing panel joints and along the bottom center, next to the riser base. These overlaps need only be about 1 1/2” onto the neighboring wing panel. It is easier to tape the bottom center section with smaller pieces first and then lock them together with longer strips moving across the wing to the outer panels. Along the leading edge, cut the excess tape away instead of wrapping it around the leading edge. Once the entire wing is covered, apply a 1” wide piece of Bi-Di tape along the wing tips followed by a 2” wide strip along the entire leading edge, wrapping it evenly along the top and bottom surface. This will lock the tape together and provide more strength along the leading edge. Run a medium heat covering iron the entire wing at a moderate speed to set the adhesive better between the tape and the foam.

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Note : After the application of the Bi-Di tape to the wing, it is a good idea to scuff the tape with a scotch pad or fine sandpaper, then clean it with a rubbing alcohol tack cloth. This will clean the release agent from the back of the tape and allow better adhesion of the colored tape. Mist the entire wing with spray adhesive 10 minutes before applying the colored tape or low temperature shrink film.

d) When applying the colored tape or film, start with the lightest colors followed by increasingly darker tones. If using colored packing tape, start toward the rear of the wing and work the layers forward overlapping about 1/4”. This will lock the pieces together and help prevent leaks that will promote fuel saturation and tape peeling.

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e) Cut away any tape that may interfere with the aileron movement and servo arm operation.

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Last edited by Blue Note on Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Tomahawk SSC - Build Manual / Thread - Now Kitting

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Step 8 : Aileron Setup

a) Standard aileron setup consists of two clevises, a piece of #2-56 all-thread, and a control horn for each control surface. The short #2-56 all-thread has proven to be sufficient, but extra strength can be obtained by gluing it into a short length of carbon fiber tubing if desired. Although the dual clevis approach has been chosen here for simplicity and ease of adjustment, a clevis and Z-bend combination also works. The control horn screws need to be long enough to penetrate the 3/8” aileron stock. The nylon horns have been trimmed down to minimize snag points, weight and drag.

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b) Lock an aileron in position by clamping two flat, rigid items ( such as a couple steel rules ) to the aileron stock. The overhanging rules will force the aileron to center between the top and bottom of the airfoil. The trailing edge of the aileron may also be centered to the fiberglassed trailing edge of the wing center section if desired, the position is the same if performed correctly.
c) Install the control horn on the bottom of the aileron directly in line with the servo arm with the pivot point in line with the crease of the hinge. With one clevis attached to the push rod and servo arm, and the other attached to the control horn, mark and shorten the push rod to obtain the proper length. Screw the second clevis onto the push rod and reattach it to the control horn. At proper length, there should be no binding of the servo. Make sure to secure the clevis locks and repeat for the other aileron. Set the aileron control throws and proceed to the fuselage.

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d) Aileron control throws :

High Rates : +/- 3/4”
Low Rates : +/- 1/2”
Last edited by Blue Note on Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Tomahawk SSC - Build Manual / Thread - Now Kitting

Post by Blue Note »

The Fuselage


Step 9 : The Vertical Stabilizer

a) The vertical stabilizer should have locations marked for the mounting and ribbon attachment holes. For each mounting location, slide two ply wood stiffeners into the flutes of the vertical so they reside offset behind the pin hole markers. A single wood strip supports the ribbon mounting location. With the strips in place, drill the vertical attachment point holes with a #20 ( or an 11/64” ) drill bit and the ribbon attachment with a 1/8” bit. Glue the wooden reinforcements in place with thin CA glue and allow to dry. Note : The moisture from the CA will cause the wood to swell and should be re-drilled if using the #20 bit. DO NOT re-drill the holes if using the 11/64” bit as it creates a larger hole and the shrinkage of the hole from the swelling is a benefit to ensure a tight fit.

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b) Apply some masking tape to the vertical stabilizer between the mounting holes to perform the stabulator servo positioning. Use the fuselage rails and aluminum all-thread posts to accurately mark the location of the rails relative to the vertical. Mark the center distance between the mounting holes for reference. The servo arm should be mounted 1” below the center of the fuselage rails and the rear mounting tab of the servo ( HS-82MG ) will be secured by the 10” long 5/32” fiberglass rod that stiffens the vertical. It should slide through the flute and match up with the hole in the servo tab ( without the rubber insert ), so shift the servo forward as needed to make this alignment. The servo lead should exit toward the front of the plane. Note : If using a servo other than the HS-82MG, the positioning for the tabs may not allow locking of the servo in place with the vertical reinforcement. In such a case, the front and rear servo tab may need to be locked in with bamboo skewers as addressed later.

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c) Cut the shape of the stabulator servo out of the vertical with a sharp razor knife and secure the servo in place with the 10” long 5/32” fiberglass rod through the rear servo mounting tab as the rod is slid through the appropriate flute of the vertical. The front tab will be secured with a short piece of bamboo skewer that extends through the eyelet of the servo and should be cut flush to the bottom of the vertical. These pieces should not be glued in place if easy removal of the servo is desired. Apply tape along the perimeter of the vertical to prevent it from getting loaded down with dirt and reduce drag.

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d) Attach the vertical to each fuselage rail with the aluminum all-thread, aluminum nuts, and the 4 short standoffs. The flange of the standoffs go against the vertical and the nuts should be secured with blue thread lock. Do not over-tighten the nuts. Note : If using the pre-drilled Magnum .15 XLS fuselage rails, there are both left and right fuselage channels. The motor mount holes must be positioned toward the inside. This is not a consideration for the stock rails.

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e) Tie the excess servo lead around the left front vertical mounting post, leaving a little slack in the wire. A small drop of hot glue can be used to ensure the knot doesn't vibrate loose over time. ( This step can be done later as well, after final assembly. )

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Last edited by Blue Note on Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:19 am, edited 2 times in total.
Chris Gunter
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Re: Tomahawk SSC - Build Manual / Thread - Now Kitting

Post by Blue Note »

Step 10 : The Stabulator

a) The stabulator is held in place by the 11” long 5/32” fiberglass rod, which is passed through the corner flute and standoffs that line the pivot holes. Install the longer standoffs with the flange laterally and secure with hot glue between the rails to prevent loss when the stabulator is removed. Confirm the fit of the stabulator around the fuselage and trim as necessary. The stabulator servo arm in should perpendicular to the surface of the vertical stabilizer when neutral. Install the stabulator and mark the location for the #4-40 control horn screw at the same lateral location of the 2nd servo arm hole. The hole should be centered between the two flutes at the leading edge of the stabulator's fuselage clearance notch. Slide two lite-ply reinforcement strips into these flutes to provide support to the stabulator control screw. Drill a 9/64” hole through the stabulator and wood strips to accept the t-nut post. Apply thin CA glue to the strips to secure them in place and re-drill the hole to compensate for swelling.

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b) Trim any excess lite-ply from the fuselage notch and tape the perimeter of the stabulator. Insert the #4-40 x 1 1/4” pan head screw and washer into the stabulator from the top
side.

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c) Tighten the #4-40 t-nut down to seat it fully then remove the screw and apply a small drop of thin CA to secure the t-nut in place. Avoid getting glue into the threads of the t-nut. Reinstall the control horn screw and secure it with blue thread lock. Attach the nylon control clevis link, allowing 5/8” clearance between the t-nut to the threaded portion of the clevis link.

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d) Center the installed stabulator with the fuselage rails and tape in in place. Attach one control clevis to the stabulator nylon control clevis and the other to the stabulator servo and push rod. With the servo and stabulator in neutral, line the push rod up and mark the proper location to cut the #2-56 all-thread push rod so it will thread into the 2nd control clevis the proper distance. Cut the push rod and install the clevis to the completed push rod. When installed, the stabulator should be perfectly centered and parallel to the fuselage rails with the servo in neutral.

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e) Measure the throw deflection at the leading edge of the stabulator next to the fuselage rails. The provided measurements are good starting points to fine tune the Tomahawk and are not considered absolute. Combat planes are typically adjusted for peak performance, which is represented by the high rate values. Always perform initial flights on low rates until comfortable with the flight characteristics of a given plane. Adjust the up and down deflections of the stabulator to allow 3 clean consecutive loops at full throttle in the positive and negative direction. The diameter of the loops should also be similar, which may require a touch more down deflection as compared to up. About 25% exponential is suggested on the stabulator for the Tomahawk SSC.

Stabulator Control Throws :

High Rates : +/- 3/8” measured at the leading edge
Low Rates : +/- 3/16” measured at the leading edge

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Last edited by Blue Note on Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Tomahawk SSC - Build Manual / Thread - Now Kitting

Post by Blue Note »

Step 11 : Installing the Engine

a) If installing an engine on an undrilled base kit, place a strip of masking tape onto the front top portion of the fuselage rails.

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b) Place the engine upon the fuselage rails with the mounting tabs square and flush with the leading edge of the aluminum channels. Mark the center of the engine mounting holes onto the masking tape using an Engine Mount Hole Locator or other preferred method.

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c) Indent the marked locations for the motor mount holes with a center punch to keep the drill bit from wandering and then drill the holes in the fuselage rails. Use a 1/8” drill bit for 3mm or #4-40 sized mounting screws. Clean the holes and remove any flashing created by the drilling process.

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d) Attach the engine to the fuselage rails with 3mm or #4-40 sized screws and nylon lock nuts, inserted within the channel from the bottom.

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Last edited by Blue Note on Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Tomahawk SSC - Build Manual / Thread - Now Kitting

Post by Blue Note »

Step 12 : The Wing Stop / Throttle Servo Block

a) Fuel-proof the wooden Wing Stop / Throttle Block back plate with thin CA. Center the wing stop blocks so the holes are in the middle of each fuselage rail and join them to the back plate with Goop. Clamp the assembly together while making sure the bottom is flush and allow it to dry. ( During final assembly, these holes need to be centered upon the fuselage rails and rest flat against them for the best fit and function. Confirm these conditions after clamping to make sure they are correct. )

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b) The 9-10g throttle is secured to the Wing Stop / Throttle Block back plate with Goop. Positioning of the servo between the blocks may require the removal of the servo case mounting tabs. The servo should be positioned with the servo arm pointing down between the fuselage rails and the servo spline on the left side ( the final position of the Wing Stop / Throttle Block places the wooden back plate aft, so this will be the side opposite of the throttle arm on the engine ). The servo needs to be located low enough on the backing plate to allow full movement of the servo arm with a push rod attached.

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c) Fill in the gaps around the throttle servo with hot glue, if desired, and make sure the servo arm is positioned perpendicular to the fuselage rails with the servo in neutral.

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Last edited by Blue Note on Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Tomahawk SSC - Build Manual / Thread - Now Kitting

Post by Blue Note »

Final Assembly


Step 13 : Putting Things In Place

a) In order to accurately determine the CG of the plane, all of the major components need to be temporarily in place. Use a couple pieces of scrap bamboo about 3” long to serve as rubber band anchors. Carefully secure the wing to the rails with 2 rubber bands across the top of the wing. The Wing Stop / Throttle Block assembly should be set in place between the wing and tank with the 1 1/4” #4-40 screws, washers and lock nuts inserted into the blocks, but not secured. The fuel tank and foam cushion are held in place by a rubber band around the fuselage rails.

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b) Attach the nylon skid anchor blocks and blind rivets to the 11” long 1/8” fiberglass rod, then tape the assembly length-wise to the top of the wing, centered at the leading edge. Loosely install estimated lengths of fuel tubing and any accessories intended for use such as fuel filters and remote needles. The propeller and spinner nut should be in place during the CG determination process as well.

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Last edited by Blue Note on Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
Chris Gunter
East TN
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